Lanolin Soap - After Dye Care - 300g
This soap is specifically designed to be used at the end of the dying process. The fatty soap is great for absorbing any dye particles which did not fully bond to the fiber during dying. 25% of the fats used in the soap are lanolin. As lanolin remains unsaponified in soap, once rinsed clean, all the soap and unbonded dye will be washed away leaving the lanolin on the surface of the fiber.
This recipe has a slightly higher lye content than the cream, making it slightly better for absorbing unbonded dye molecules.
Suggested use is 5 - 10% WOF.
300g bottle
I like to add to a vat of lukewarm water and soak the yarn for 30 minutes before washing. Do not over agitate while soaking as that could felt the yarn.
*Natural lanolin is yellow. As the soap both removes unbonded dye particles and leaves behind lanolin, the soap may slightly dull your colors. Make sure you calculate the correct amount of mordant and consider slightly over-dying your colors to achieve best results when using this soap as a finish.
Ingredients: lanolin oil, lanolin wax, vegetable fat (no palm oil), coconut oil, castor oil, potassium hydroxide, borax, water
This soap is specifically designed to be used at the end of the dying process. The fatty soap is great for absorbing any dye particles which did not fully bond to the fiber during dying. 25% of the fats used in the soap are lanolin. As lanolin remains unsaponified in soap, once rinsed clean, all the soap and unbonded dye will be washed away leaving the lanolin on the surface of the fiber.
This recipe has a slightly higher lye content than the cream, making it slightly better for absorbing unbonded dye molecules.
Suggested use is 5 - 10% WOF.
300g bottle
I like to add to a vat of lukewarm water and soak the yarn for 30 minutes before washing. Do not over agitate while soaking as that could felt the yarn.
*Natural lanolin is yellow. As the soap both removes unbonded dye particles and leaves behind lanolin, the soap may slightly dull your colors. Make sure you calculate the correct amount of mordant and consider slightly over-dying your colors to achieve best results when using this soap as a finish.
Ingredients: lanolin oil, lanolin wax, vegetable fat (no palm oil), coconut oil, castor oil, potassium hydroxide, borax, water
This soap is specifically designed to be used at the end of the dying process. The fatty soap is great for absorbing any dye particles which did not fully bond to the fiber during dying. 25% of the fats used in the soap are lanolin. As lanolin remains unsaponified in soap, once rinsed clean, all the soap and unbonded dye will be washed away leaving the lanolin on the surface of the fiber.
This recipe has a slightly higher lye content than the cream, making it slightly better for absorbing unbonded dye molecules.
Suggested use is 5 - 10% WOF.
300g bottle
I like to add to a vat of lukewarm water and soak the yarn for 30 minutes before washing. Do not over agitate while soaking as that could felt the yarn.
*Natural lanolin is yellow. As the soap both removes unbonded dye particles and leaves behind lanolin, the soap may slightly dull your colors. Make sure you calculate the correct amount of mordant and consider slightly over-dying your colors to achieve best results when using this soap as a finish.
Ingredients: lanolin oil, lanolin wax, vegetable fat (no palm oil), coconut oil, castor oil, potassium hydroxide, borax, water